The Coquette Aesthetic: Beyond Pink and Bows

Written by: Tan Ting Xuan (24-E6)

Designed by: D S Dhanvin (24-E4)

Photo credits: Coquette bows and trends are spiraling in many different directions

Internet aesthetics are the face of Generation Z. From the rustic charm of cottagecore to the muted tones of dark academia, aesthetics that emerged over the past decade have made their mark on social media platforms, expanding with every click, like and repost. The 2014 Tumblr aesthetic, characterised by indie music and dark colour schemes, is regarded as one of the largest influences to the contemporary aesthetics movement. Fast forward to ten years later, the coquette aesthetic has taken over as a modern trendsetter, with the hashtag #coquetteaesthetic racking up billions of views on TikTok alone.

For those unfamiliar with the trend, the coquette aesthetic is essentially an embodiment of girlhood - think lace, ribbons and pastel hues. Inspired by Victorian and Rococo fashion, it borrows playful and romantic elements to create a look that is undoubtedly feminine. Unlike other micro-trends that mostly circulate on the internet, the coquette aesthetic has made its mark on the fashion scene, with celebrities such as Sydney Sweeney and Zendaya donning outfits adorned with bows. Lana del Rey is often credited for having significant influence on its musical style, with the indie singer’s dreamy, vintage-inspired 2012 album Born to Die frequently associated with the aesthetic.

Despite only gaining popularity recently, the coquette aesthetic is nothing new given that there have always been products catering to the hyper-feminine style. Why are people obsessed with it now?

The rise of the coquette aesthetic

There are a multitude of reasons for the rise of the coquette aesthetic. Perhaps the most distinctive one is how 2023 was dubbed “the year of the girl”, with Greta Gerwig’s critically acclaimed movie Barbie and Taylor Swift’s revolutionary concert tour The Eras Tour dominating popular culture. Their successes have made a clear statement that women deserve to be respected and credited for their work, providing a glimpse into the lives of women who dare to chart their own paths. Consequently, “the year of the girl” invites us to rethink what it means to be a woman in a world where misogyny and double standards continue to perpetuate societies.

In an era where femininity is redefined and celebrated, the word ‘coquette’, referring to a flirtatious woman, has shifted to include an expression of female identity and embracing girlhood in all its forms. By incorporating dainty elements such as pearls and bows, the coquette aesthetic urges individuals to reclaim traditionally feminine aesthetics without subscribing to preconceived notions. It also allows women to revisit the nostalgia of their childhood without feeling the need to conform to societal expectations. This counters the effect of internalised misogyny that can pressure women to develop an aversion towards “girly” elements such as the colour pink. The beauty of the coquette aesthetic lies in its ability to transform the perception of pink from a symbol of conformity to a symbol of strength.

Another reason for the coquette aesthetic’s appeal is how it is often associated with romanticising one’s life, a trend that took off on social media during the pandemic. The idea of romanticising one’s life is about finding beauty in the small details in order to live a more intentional life. As part of the trend, TikTok users are filming videos of themselves tying pink ribbons on everything from cutlery to ice cubes, set to the audio of Lana del Rey’s “Let the Light In”. While this may seem absurd, it is actually the point of the coquette bow trend - to romanticise daily occurrences and find moments of joy in the mundanity of life. In spite of our busy schedules, we can afford to be a little frivolous with our lives, hence it comes as no surprise that the trend resonates with many of us.

On the flip side of the bow

With that said, the coquette aesthetic is not as flawless as the media makes it out to be. Various subgenres of the coquette aesthetic have been criticised for their infantilization of women, most notably the nymphet aesthetic. Inspired by Nabokov’s highly controversial 1955 novel Lolita, its distinct style of gingham and cherry print is adopted from the young girl whom the protagonist in the novel preys on. This renders the nymphet subgenre deeply problematic for perpetuating an eroticism of innocence and youth.

While the coquette aesthetic itself does not subscribe to these ideas, it can lead to a fixation on appearances where women are pushed to buy into a commercially prescribed idea of girlhood. A trend of babydoll dresses and dainty accessories promotes an ideal of youth that women are increasingly pressured to consume. As with other short-lived TikTok micro-trends, the coquette aesthetic encourages overconsumption with young women and girls adapting their styles to fit the aesthetic, only to disregard these pieces when the hype dies down. On a more personal level, internet aesthetics that leave no room for individual style can stifle creativity and create feelings of inadequacy for not keeping up with the latest trends.

Additionally, the coquette aesthetic has come under fire for pursuing the narrative of being skinny and white. Hyper-feminine fashion has been called out on social media for failing to include people of colour and a range of body types, with role models typically being thin and light-skinned. Since the coquette aesthetic draws from notions of femininity that go back as early as the 18th century, one may question how inclusive it is and whether plus-sized women, transgender women and women of colour are able to participate in it at all. It is plausible that in reclaiming femininity, the coquette aesthetic unintentionally falls back on regressive stereotypes that prevent it from making strides in the right direction.

Tying it all together

Even though the controversy surrounding the coquette aesthetic may deter some from embracing it, in recent years it has detached itself from the harmful aspects of the nymphet aesthetic to become a transformative movement of its own. It challenges the notion that femininity is associated with weakness, emphasising that there is strength in being delicate through the reclamation of soft features. Amidst the transience of micro-trends, the coquette aesthetic stays relevant to its audience by allowing individuals to rewrite the narrative and push for greater diversity at the forefront of the aesthetic. Its influence has empowered women to break the mould, becoming a significant force in the larger sphere of internet aesthetics.

In the end, how do we decide if the coquette aesthetic is for us? Rather than blindly following trends that are garnering attention online, it is important to exercise discernment by considering if these trends align with one’s personal values. In today’s society, women are increasingly given the autonomy to make decisions about their bodies without having to alter their styles to cater to the male gaze. Even if the ultra-feminine style isn’t for you, it is hard to deny that the coquette aesthetic has enabled women to see clothing as a reflection of who they are instead of who society expects them to be. In the words of Taylor Swift herself, that’s a real lasting legacy to leave.

Bibliography

Kumamoto, Ian. “The Coquette Aesthetic Has Taken over NYC but It’s Not All Ribbons and Bows.”Time Out New York, Time Out, 2 Feb. 2024, www.timeout.com/newyork/news/gen-z-has-fallen-in-love-with-the-coquette-aesthetic-but-its-not-all-ribbons-and-bows-020224. 

Grazia. “What Is the Coquette Aesthetic That Is Taking over the Internet?” Grazia Singapore, 4 Apr. 2024, grazia.sg/fashion/the-coquette-core-aesthetic-that-is-taking. 

Roman, Iustina. “The Dark Side of Coquette.” Cherwell, 20 Jan. 2022, cherwell.org/2022/01/20/the-dark-side-of-coquette/.

Sautelle, ByMargo. “Underneath the Pretty Pink Bow: Exploring the Flaws of the Coquette Trend.” Roar News, 15 Mar. 2024, roarnews.co.uk/2024/underneath-the-pretty-pink-bow-exploring.